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nl gelcoat   harde lak die als beschemende laag wordt aangebracht op objecten van glasvezelversterkte kunststoffen. Gelcoat bestaat uit met kiezelzuur verdikt kunsthars (meestal onverzadigde polyesther UP). Het verzegelt de eronderliggende lagen tegen vocht, beschermt tegen schade veroorzaakt door druk en kan naar behoefte worden gekleurd.
de Gelcoat Hartlack, der als Schutzschicht auf Formteilen aus glasfaserverstärkten Kunststoffen aufgetragen wird. Das Gelcoat besteht aus mit Kieselsäure angedicktem Kunstharz (meist ungesättigter Polyester UP). Es versiegelt die darunterliegenden Schichten gegen Feuchtigkeit, schützt vor Druckschäden und kann nach Bedarf eingefärbt werden.
en gelcoat a material used to provide a high quality finish on the visible surface of a fibre-reinforced composite material. The most common gelcoats are based on epoxy or unsaturated polyester resin chemistry. Gelcoats are modified resins which are applied to moulds in the liquid state. They are cured to form crosslinked polymers and are subsequently backed up with composite polymer matrices, often mixtures of polyester resin and fiberglass or epoxy resin with glass, kevlar and/or carbon fibres.
fr gelcoat  
es gelcoat  
it gelcoat  
dk gel-coat      
se gel-coat      
     
en

Gelcoat repair

Repairing gelcoat is not a difficult process, although it is usually time-consuming. The first and most important job is to ensure the area in and around the damage is free of any loose material, such as flakes of gelcoat or bits of loose fibreglass. It must also be very clean and completely dry. Wipe the area with acetone to remove any grease, oil, wax, etc. When the acetone has dried, mask the area with masking tape to ensure any spill-over can be easily cleaned up.

If the vessel is more than a year old, the exposed fibreglass laminate should be wiped over with styrene to soften the surface and assist the bonding process between the new gelcoat and laminate. Styrene should make the surface slightly sticky to the touch.

After the styrene has been applied and left for a short time, the area is ready for the new gelcoat to be applied. Mix the gelcoat with the catalyst (often known as MEPK) at two per cent by volume or mass. Always read the mixing instructions on the container. Be careful to thoroughly mix the gelcoat and MEKP as it is very easy to miss some of the gelcoat, resulting in ‘dead spots’. When mixing very small quantities, as is usually the case with gelcoat repairs, it is particularly important to mix thoroughly.

Using a small brush – an artist’s brush for very small repairs – carefully paint the gelcoat into the damaged area. Keep adding gelcoat until it is a little higher than the surrounding surface.

Leave the gelcoat to harden for at least 24 hours before attempting the next step. The repaired area should be covered with masking tape or plastic to prevent exposure to moisture overnight. When the gelcoat has thoroughly hardened, use 400-grit wet and dry with fresh water and very carefully sand the area down until it is flush with the surrounding surface.

Next, use 600-grit wet and dry (again with fresh water) to remove the scratches left by the 400 wet and dry paper. For a really professional finish, complete the process by using 1000- or 1200-grit paper. When using wet and dry paper, always use a sanding block employing a circular motion (small circles) rather than a back and forth movement. The circular motion will reduce the amount of harsh scratching and produces a better finish. Do not be tempted to use a mechanical sander, as it will quickly spoil the job. Also, electricity and water are a very dangerous mix.

After sanding, you may find that there are still some small hollow areas in the repaired section. After the gelcoat is thoroughly dry and clean, wipe the surface over with acetone, then paint in more gelcoat and once hardened, sand again to a smooth, even finish.

When all gelcoat repairs are complete, apply at least two coats of fibreglass polish. Automotive wax is not recommended as it may damage or discolour the gelcoat.

The surrounding area needs to be polished to blend in the repaired area with the rest of the surface. The area being polished should extend out to an edge or a line where the shape of the moulding changes rapidly to mask any slight colour variations. Several coats of polish should be applied for best effect and lasting protection. Most manufacturers advise that gelcoat polish should never be applied on a hot day or in direct bright sunlight as the solvents in the wax will evaporate too quickly, making it hard to work the polish up to a glossy finish.

When using a lambs wool buff on an electric polisher, it is important to always keep the polisher moving. If the polisher is held in one position for any length of time there is a risk of overheating the polish and producing a burn mark. Burn marks can usually be removed by carefully applying a very small amount of styrene with a rag and then thoroughly wiping the area with acetone. The styrene should remove the burn marks and all of the wax. Leave the area to dry thoroughly before applying several coats of polish.

Gelcoat manufacturers usually recommend that a coat of polish should be applied to a fibreglass vessel every six months, although I rarely see this happening. However, vessels that are polished every six months certainly stand out from the crowd.

For gelcoat that has too many blisters or cracks, the only method of repair is to prepare the surface and paint it.

Before proceeding, it is important to first establish the cause of any gelcoat cracks and investigate if the crack extends into the laminate. The laminate may need to be strengthened to prevent further damage to the structural integrity of the vessel. This may require professional advice.

All of the blisters should be thoroughly cleaned out, with any loose material removed. The crater should then be filled with an epoxy filler. Next, the entire area should be heavily sanded to ‘break’ the surface. Sanding will also ensure all gloss, wax, dirt etc. is removed from the surface. It should then be spray painted with a two-pot polyurethane or epoxy undercoat, before applying a final gloss coat. Some paint manufacturers recommend applying an etch primer before undercoating. Either way, consult a reputable paint manufacturer before proceeding.

 
 
source: Club Marine